This week I have been sampling elements from my designs by making toiles out of calico. This gave me an idea of how the design would actually look and how easy/hard it would be to make.
The first sample was a strapless dress with a wrap coming from one shoulder down to the opposite hip. I altered the dress pattern so that it would fit firmly around the bust and therefore would not slip down due to the fact that there are no shoulder straps to hold it up. I then used a chiffon fabric to wrap around the dress and pinned it in place at the back. Compared to some of my other designs this was really simple and easy to make and also didn't look as good as the design did so I doubt I'll use this design in my final garment and if I do end up using it I will alter it to give myself more of a challenge.
The second sample was a little more of a challenge as it was a skirt that draped longer at one side with another layer underneath which draped longer to the other side, as shown to the left. To get this effect I used a skirt pattern and made it shorter on one side to get the top skirt. For the bottom I had to add a few centimetres to the length of the skirt and then did the same as the top skirt but to the opposite side. Once both the skirts were sewn I turned them inside out and sewed them together so that they were all one skirt. I liked the effect that this skirt gave so I may consider it for my final design. I may also consider incorporating this skirt into my other designs.
My third sample wasn't a challenge in the slightest. All I had to do was take a few centimetres off the width of the bottom of the dress to make it a pencil skirt and then sew it together as I would with any dress. However this dress may be used in my design with many textile samples and extra elements such as beading and batik. I would also add other parts to the garment such as a shawl or a wrap jacket to make it more interesting and challenging.
For the next two samples I simply wrapped chiffon around a mannequin and pinned it in place. The samples differ as the first is long at the front whereas the second is longer in the back with a shorter front. Out of the two I prefer the second as the varied length of the skirt adds more detail and interest to the wrap and as the wrap would be over a dress or skirt you would be able to see the bottom of the dress at the front. The wrap was simple to put on the mannequin however would be more of a challenge to sew together in the correct way to get it on and off my model whilst flowing correctly across the body. I really like the idea of using the wrap as it links to my tribe and research and I will incorporate textile techniques to add more detail to the final garment. 12th May 2014
Shown to the left is my dress toile. I used a simple dress pattern and slightly changed the neckline so it was a V-neck and the skirt into a pencil skirt. As you can see in the image the skirt is a little too long and it is a little too large in the shoulders. I changed this in the pattern for my actual dress so that it fit more accurately and I also altered the neckline more so that it was larger and the point ended further down.
Shown on the left is the toile for my shawl. I simply used a length of fabric and draped it around the mannequin. Once I was happy with the shape I pinned the fabric in place and sewed it together so that it could be removed and put on over the head. I will simply repeat this process with my final shawl and make the edges neater. I will also add a circular weave onto the centre of the shawl.
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